Guide VIII-186

Craft and textile therapy

Ann Futterman Collier, Rachel Cohen, Betsan Corkhill, Frances Reynolds2000
Client cardCompare
[source: …] where a claim comes from[uncertain] not confirmed in a primary source[synthesis] the writer's reconstruction

1. Introduction

Version followed: Ann Futterman Collier's textile-arts-and-handcrafts approach (Collier, 2011, Using Textile Arts and Handcrafts in Therapy with Women, Jessica Kingsley; described here from the publisher's description and table of contents, a 2012 author interview, and her peer-reviewed studies of women textile makers, 2011, 2014 and 2016; the book's own exercises are not reproduced), supplemented by three published strands: the Common Threads Project story-cloth psychotherapy circles (Rachel Cohen, founder; trainings co-led by art therapist Lisa Raye Garlock), Betsan Corkhill's Therapeutic Knitting (Stitchlinks), and Frances Reynolds's qualitative studies of needlecraft in depression and chronic illness (2000, 2002). Where these differ, the strand is named.

Craft and textile therapy is not one manualised therapy. It is an umbrella term for using fibre and cloth work (knitting, crochet, weaving, spinning, sewing, embroidery, beading, rug hooking, felting, batik, quilting) inside a therapeutic relationship [source: Collier interview, JKP blog 2012]. Clinicians mostly practise it within art therapy, occupational therapy or psychological therapy, not as a separate profession.

How change is thought to happen, by strand:

  • Collier: absorbing, energising making repairs low mood and brings "rejuvenation", a restored, ready-to-begin-again feeling that outlasts the activity. It helps makers cope, put adversity in perspective and stop ruminating. Building objects that act as metaphors lets issues be explored "in more depth". She sets this against art-therapy approaches built mainly around venting negative feelings, aiming instead for "positive mood, pleasure and rejuvenation" [source: Collier interview, JKP blog 2012; Collier & von Károlyi 2014]. In her laboratory study, women who recalled an upsetting event and then made textile art showed the most positive mood, most engagement and least rumination, compared with quiet reflection or writing about the event [source: Collier, Wayment & Birkett 2016].
  • Story cloths: stitching a story externalises it. The unspeakable can then be approached in a tactile, non-threatening way, and alternative stories can emerge "verbally and visually" [source: GWU workshop pages, Garlock]. Common Threads Project circles aim to process trauma without triggering the threat response, and without stigma, shame or self-blame [source: Common Threads Project presentation, 2022].
  • Therapeutic knitting: rhythmic, bilateral, automatic hand movement produces a meditative-like state. Mastery, social contact and making for others then build self-efficacy and re-engagement [source: Corkhill, Pain Concern transcript].
  • Reynolds: needlecraft helped self-management through absorption and flow, distraction from worry, structure to the day, choice and control, visible achievement, an alternative identity, colour and social contact [source: Reynolds 2000]. Over time, meanings were often recognised in the work only in hindsight [source: Reynolds 2002].

Professional frame. There is no known regulated profession or protected title of "craft therapist" or "textile therapist" [uncertain]. In practice the method is used under an existing registration:

  • UK: HCPC-registered art therapists (BAAT) or occupational therapists (RCOT).
  • US: credentialed art therapists (AATA; ATR-BC through ATCB) or occupational therapists (AOTA/NBCOT).
  • Licensed psychologists, counsellors and social workers working within their competence.

[synthesis] Garlock, for example, practises as ATR-BC, ATCS, LCPAT [source: GWU workshop page]. Collier writes mainly for readers with counselling training, and warns that psychological issues arise in fibre workshops that most fibre teachers are not trained to handle [source: Collier interview].

[synthesis] Practical rule: a craft teacher can run a wellbeing craft group. Deliberately using cloth to work on trauma, grief or self-harm needs a trained, registered therapist. Trauma story-cloth circles should only be run after specific training, such as the trauma-focused trainings Garlock describes.

2. Framework

No general phase model with session counts has been published for craft and textile therapy as a whole [uncertain]. The published structures are given first, then a synthesised working sequence.

Published structures

  • Common Threads Project (CTP) circles [source: CTP presentation 2022; Cohen 2022 chapter abstract]. Groups of women survivors of sexual and gender-based violence in humanitarian settings (Bosnia and Herzegovina, Ecuador, Nepal, DR Congo), with two facilitators per circle and local therapists given advanced clinical training. The work runs in three phases:
    1. An intensive programme combining several therapeutic modalities, in which each woman makes an individual story cloth.
    2. A circle that processes trauma and makes collective story cloths.
    3. Participants take leadership roles to help others.
    • Session number and length are not given in the published outline [uncertain]. The chapter describes integrating story-cloth making with approaches informed by trauma neuroscience, traditional healing practices and groupwork.
  • Story-cloth training day (Garlock, GWU) [source: GWU workshop pages]. Background and discussion, then starting the cloth; a stitch demonstration; layout and design; working on the cloth; then discussion of clinical application. Participants learn three classic stitches, which the workshop description does not name [uncertain].
  • Therapeutic knitting (Corkhill) [source: Pain Concern transcript]:
    • Referral comes via a pain unit.
    • Patients with complex needs, including psychiatric problems, or those not ready for a group start with individual knitting sessions. Their first goal may simply be attending the group.
    • Next comes the group, with a little knitting every day at home.
    • An online network supports isolated people, and some later move to face-to-face groups.
  • Collier [source: Collier interview; JKP publisher page; book contents, UBC Press page]. Psychosocial issues are paired with archetypes, myths, symbols, materials and objects. The client makes a metaphorical object, with expressive writing and guided imagery alongside, and projects are tailored to the client. Collier explicitly rejects a formula-book approach. The book moves from women's mental well-being, to assessing where to start, to cross-cultural applications and theory, to a chapter of issues, metaphors and project suggestions, a chapter on textile techniques, and a chapter on women's textile circles ("Spin the Web: Circles of Women"), with a textile survey as an appendix. No session count is stated in these sources [uncertain].

Working sequence for an individual or group course [synthesis; it draws together the strands above and is not any author's protocol]

PhaseGoalsTypical formatMove on when
A. Assessment and engagement (1–2 sessions)Risk and safeguarding screen, craft history, physical and sensory needs, goals, choice of craftIndividual; try out 2–3 materialsClient has picked a craft, safety plan agreed, goal named
B. Skill, rhythm and regulation (2–6 sessions)Learn one simple, repeatable technique; use it to settle; build mastery and daily practiceIndividual or group, 60–90 min; home projectClient can use the technique on their own and reports some calming or absorption
C. Meaning-making (variable)Metaphor, story cloth, memory or legacy object; expressive writing or imageryIndividual or closed groupClient can talk about the piece, or pause, without being flooded
D. Integration and ending (1–3 sessions)Review the body of work, decide what happens to objects, link to community craft, relapse planIndividual review; optional group sharing or display with consentPlan in place for continuing to make, and for the objects

[synthesis] Skip phase C for clients who need regulation and activity only, such as pain or low-mood self-management of the kind Reynolds and Corkhill describe. Do not begin trauma narrative work in phase C until phase-B regulation is established.

Materials and physical safety (set-up) [synthesis unless tagged; use your service's own policies]

  • Sharps on inpatient units:
    • Count needles, pins, scissors, seam rippers, rotary cutters, felting needles and crochet hooks out and back in, against a written tally, at the start and end of every session.
    • Store them in a lockable tin with numbered slots or foam cut-outs.
    • Use a magnetic pin dish. Prefer blunt-tip scissors and plastic or large-eye tapestry needles where the risk assessment calls for it.
    • If an item is missing, stop the session, search, and escalate under ward procedure before anyone leaves.
  • Ligature risk: yarn, cord, ribbon, braid, fabric strips and finished long items such as scarves and long knitting can be ligatures.
    • Decide per patient, through the multidisciplinary risk assessment, whether projects stay in the therapy room or go to the bedroom. Limit lengths in the room as the assessment requires.
    • Follow local ligature-reduction and restricted-items policy. National guidance (Mental Health and Learning Disability Nurse Directors Forum, with Experts by Experience and the CQC) covers ligature material as well as anchor points, and treats therapeutic engagement as one of five protective factors [source: HEFMA news item on the guidance].
  • Dyes and solvents:
    • Dye powders and some mordants can sensitise the airways. Mix them in a ventilated space, wearing gloves and a dust mask, away from food.
    • Prefer water-based fabric paints to solvent-based ones.
    • Hot batik wax is a burn and fire risk. Use a thermostatically controlled wax pot, never an open flame, and keep a fire blanket nearby.
    • Keep safety data sheets on file and follow COSHH in the UK or equivalent rules elsewhere.
    • Irons and steam can burn, so keep a dedicated pressing station.
  • Repetitive strain: knitting, crochet, hand sewing, needle felting and wet felting are repetitive.
    • Build in breaks of roughly 20–30 minutes, with hand and shoulder stretches.
    • Offer ergonomic hooks, thicker needles, chunkier yarn and supported seating.
    • Adapt for arthritis, hypermobility and pain conditions.
    • Stop if there is numbness, tingling or pain that gets worse.
  • Other: check for wool and latex allergies. Keep hot water for wet felting at a safe temperature, and give sewing machines a guard and a supervision rule.

3. Guiding principles

  • Tailor to the person, not a formula [source: Collier interview]. Choose the craft and project for this client's skills, interests, culture, spiritual beliefs, disability, expertise and issue.
  • Engagement and pleasure are therapeutic in their own right [source: Collier interview]. Plan for absorption and enjoyment, not only for expressing distress.
  • Arousing, engaging crafts repair mood best [source: Collier interview; Collier & von Károlyi 2014; Collier, Wayment & Birkett 2016]. When the goal is mood repair, favour energising, absorbing, physically involving crafts that leave little room for brooding. In Collier and von Károlyi's survey of 435 textile makers, the crafts rated most rejuvenating (mixed media, surface design, quilting, weaving, spinning and dyeing) were also rated the most arousing and engaging.
  • Match project difficulty to current mood and energy [source: Reynolds 2000]. Keep simple, low-concentration work for bad days and save fiddly work, such as beading, for better ones.
  • Choice and control [source: Reynolds 2000; CTP]. The client chooses the materials, colours, pace and content, and may stop at any time.
  • Mastery builds self-efficacy [source: Reynolds 2000; Corkhill]. Grade tasks so success comes early, and keep finished pieces as visible evidence of it.
  • Rhythm, repetition and relationship [source: GWU workshop page, citing Perry's Neurodevelopmental Model]. Use repetitive stitching in a warm relationship as the regulating base before any story work.
  • Avoid triggering the threat response [source: CTP presentation]. In trauma work, the cloth carries the story so the client does not have to retell it in detail. Pace so the body stays regulated.
  • Non-verbal and verbal channels together [source: CTP; Collier]. Let the cloth speak first, and invite words only as the client is ready.
  • Externalise the story [source: GWU workshop pages]. Treat the cloth as the story outside the person, and look for alternative stories in it.
  • Metaphor carries meaning [source: Collier interview]. Use textile idiom and symbol (threads, mending, scars, weaving) as a bridge to inner experience.
  • Meaning often comes later [source: Reynolds 2002]. Don't interpret images for the client. Invite their meaning, now and in later reviews.
  • The group as a resource and a leveller [source: CTP; Corkhill]. Groups provide connection across backgrounds and, later, roles for peers.
  • Lower the barrier of the label [source: Corkhill]. Offer "the process of knitting" rather than asking someone to become "a knitter", especially to men and other reluctant clients.
  • Cultural respect and attribution [synthesis; arpillera history from TRC Leiden]. Name the tradition a technique comes from (for example, Chilean arpilleras made by women in Santiago through the Vicaría de la Solidaridad after 1973). Do not present a community's practice as your own or as generic "technique".
  • No diagnosis from artwork [synthesis; supported by Reynolds 2002, where meanings were the makers' own and often only retrospective]. Never treat colour, imagery or a cloth's content as evidence of abuse or disorder. No validated textile-based assessment was found [uncertain].
  • Safety is part of the therapy frame [synthesis]. Sharps counts, ligature-aware storage and safe materials are stated openly to the client as part of care, not as a sign of suspicion.

4. Intervention inventory

Each entry is tagged with its source strand. Step-by-step detail is [synthesis] wherever the sources give purpose and outline but not procedure. Collier's own exercises and project catalogue are in her book and are not reproduced here; only the examples she gave in interview, and the findings of her published studies, are used [uncertain].

4.1 Craft history and matching interview

  • Purpose / when: at intake, to choose a craft and project that fit the client [source: Collier interview on tailoring; Reynolds 2000 on matching projects to mood and energy]. Collier's book gives a chapter to assessing where to start and appends a textile survey; their content is not reproduced here, so the steps below are the writer's synthesis [source for the chapter titles: UBC Press contents page].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Ask about past making: who taught them, family and cultural textile traditions, good and bad memories of making, and any school or gendered pressure around craft.
    2. Screen hands, eyesight, pain, tremor, concentration, allergies, sensory likes and dislikes, and current self-harm risk.
    3. Let the client handle 3–4 materials: wool roving, a chunky yarn with large needles, felt and embroidery thread, a small frame loom.
    4. Agree a first project that can be finished within 1–3 sessions.
    5. Agree a "bad-day" project and a "good-day" project.
  • Example language (illustrative): "Who in your life made things with cloth or yarn? What was that like for you?" "Which of these feels good in your hands?"
  • Watch for: shame about earlier failure ("I was useless at sewing at school"), memories of a carer that may be loving or painful, and cultural meanings of a craft. It is working when the client chooses with interest, not out of compliance.

4.2 Rhythmic repetitive making for regulation and mood repair

  • Purpose / when: for low mood, anxiety, rumination, pain or agitation. It is also the base before any trauma or story work [source: Collier interview on arousing activities for mood repair; Corkhill on rhythm and bilateral movement; Reynolds 2000 on absorption and relaxation; Perry's "rhythmic, repetitive" principle as cited by Garlock].
  • Steps [synthesis on the detail]:
    1. Teach one stitch only, such as knit stitch, single crochet or plain weave, until the client can do it without looking constantly.
    2. Invite them to find their own rhythm and notice breath, hands and the sound of the needles.
    3. Work 10–20 minutes, then check in on body and mood.
    4. Agree a little daily practice at home, which Corkhill recommends as a daily mental break.
    5. When the goal is mood repair, choose energising, engaging, physically involving crafts. In Collier's research, quilting, weaving, spinning, dyeing, surface design and mixed media were rated most rejuvenating [source: Collier & von Károlyi 2014].
  • Example language (illustrative): "Don't worry about the result. Let your hands find a pace that feels steady." "What's different in your body now compared with when we started?"
  • Watch for: frustration while learning, which you can reduce by lowering difficulty, and dissociative blankness rather than calm absorption: check orientation if the client goes glassy or unresponsive [synthesis]. It is working when the client reports calm, less rumination, losing track of time, or wanting to continue [source: Reynolds 2000; Corkhill].

4.3 Therapeutic knitting (Corkhill)

  • Purpose / when: for long-term pain, anxiety, depression, isolation and low motivation. Corkhill reports some clients using it for panic attacks and sleep, and dramatic improvements in some people with PTSD (her report, not a trial finding) [source: Pain Concern transcript].
  • Steps:
    1. For complex needs or group anxiety, start with individual knitting sessions [source: Corkhill].
    2. Frame the task as doing "the process of knitting", not becoming a knitter [source: Corkhill].
    3. Set a little knitting every day [source: Corkhill].
    4. Bring the client into a group when ready; reaching the group may itself be the first goal [source: Corkhill].
    5. Offer making for others, such as charity knitting for neonatal units, to move the client from receiving help to giving it [source: Corkhill].
    6. Point isolated clients to online peer networks, which can be a bridge to face-to-face groups [source: Corkhill].
  • Example language (illustrative): "You don't have to become a knitter. We're just using the movement."
  • Watch for: hand or shoulder pain, which needs ergonomic adaptation, and the stigma of the word "knitting". It is working when the client keeps practising on their own and takes up other activities. Corkhill describes knitting as a first step towards exercise and self-management.
  • Note: Stitchlinks's own guidance for clinicians is not reflected in these steps [uncertain].

4.4 Portable "calm project" for panic and insomnia

  • Purpose / when: for acute anxiety, panic or night waking [source: Reynolds 2000, where five women used sewing to slow their breathing during panic or insomnia; Corkhill on panic and sleep].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Prepare a small, simple, well-known project in a pouch, safe for the setting (on wards, a blunt-needle or needle-free option such as finger knitting).
    2. Rehearse it in session paired with slow breathing, for example one stitch per out-breath.
    3. Write it into the client's coping or safety plan as one step, not the only step.
  • Example language (illustrative): "When the panic starts, pick up the pouch and match one stitch to each slow breath out."
  • Watch for: the client relying on it in place of help-seeking during a crisis. It is working when they report shorter panic episodes or falling back to sleep.

4.5 Graded skill progression and mastery record

  • Purpose / when: for low self-esteem, demoralisation and chronic illness [source: Reynolds 2000, where finished pieces were visible evidence of mastery and one participant moved from a simple kit to a large commission; Reynolds 2002, where a challenging course gave a sense of control as pain increased; Corkhill: often "the first thing they have succeeded at" in years].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Sequence projects from a quick win (a coaster or a square) to slightly harder ones.
    2. Photograph or keep each finished piece.
    3. Review the sequence every 4–6 sessions and name the skills gained.
    4. Link the experience of mastery to other life tasks.
  • Example language (illustrative): "Six weeks ago you hadn't held a hook. Look at this row of squares."
  • Watch for: perfectionism (see 5.3). It is working when the client chooses harder projects themselves.

4.6 Craft as activity scheduling and structure

  • Purpose / when: for depression with inactivity, empty days and loneliness [source: Reynolds 2000, which links needlecraft to the CBT strategy of scheduling pleasurable activities; participants said it structured the day and filled lonely periods].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Map the client's week.
    2. Schedule short making slots in the hardest periods.
    3. Add related outings such as exhibitions, craft shops or classes.
    4. Rate mood before and after on a simple 0–10 scale.
    5. Review the pattern.
  • Example language (illustrative): "Sunday afternoons sound like the hardest time. Could twenty minutes of the scarf go there?"
  • Watch for: the plan becoming a chore. It is working when the mood ratings rise and the client adds activities of their own.

4.7 Textile metaphor and idiom exploration

  • Purpose / when: to open up feelings and relationships through language that comes naturally to makers [source: Collier interview, e.g. "hanging by a thread", "at loose ends"].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Listen for textile idioms in the client's speech: unravelling, frayed, tangled, holding it together, a tight weave.
    2. Reflect the image back and invite them to show it in material, for example a tangled skein or a frayed edge.
    3. Ask what the material needs: untangling, mending, binding off.
    4. Let the client decide whether to change the piece or leave it as it is.
  • Example language (illustrative): "You said you're hanging by a thread. If you made that thread, what would it look like, and what is it holding?"
  • Watch for: a metaphor imposed by the therapist. Use the client's own images. It is working when the client extends the metaphor themselves.

4.8 Metaphorical object: issue paired with symbol and material

  • Purpose / when: for deeper work on a named issue. This is the core of Collier's approach: psychosocial issues are paired with archetypes, myths, symbols, materials and objects [source: Collier interview; JKP publisher page].
  • Collier's published example: for healing emotional scars, the object is a healing or prayer shawl. The metaphors are the archetypal healer and scar tissue. The techniques are nuno or laminate felting, or crochet, whose web resembles scar tissue. The shawl can metaphorically turn the image of the scar into one of healing [source: Collier interview].
  • Steps [synthesis beyond the example]:
    1. Name the issue together.
    2. Explore which symbol, story or object fits it for this client, drawing on their own culture and faith rather than imposed archetypes.
    3. Choose a technique whose physical process mirrors the metaphor: binding, joining, mending, layering, felting fibres together.
    4. Make the object over several sessions, pausing to reflect.
    5. Finish by deciding how the object will be used, kept or given.
  • Example language (illustrative): "As the fibres mat together into one cloth, what is coming together for you?"
  • Watch for: religious meanings. A "prayer shawl" belongs to some faith traditions, so use that label only if it fits the client's beliefs. Also watch for overwhelm when the issue is trauma. It is working when the client links the making process to a change in how they see the issue.
  • Note: Collier's full set of issue, metaphor and project pairings is in her book's chapter on issues, metaphors and project suggestions, and is not reproduced here [uncertain].

4.9 Expressive writing alongside making

  • Purpose / when: to put words to what the making has surfaced [source: Collier publisher page and interview, which name expressive writing as a companion technique]. Collier's specific writing prompts are not reproduced here [uncertain].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. After a making block, give 5–10 minutes of free writing. Prompts: what the piece is about, a letter to or from the piece, or what each colour is holding.
    2. The client chooses whether to read the writing aloud.
    3. Keep the writing with the object, or separately if the client prefers.
  • Example language (illustrative): "Write for a few minutes as if the cloth could speak. You don't have to share it."
  • Watch for: writing that runs ahead of regulation and becomes detailed trauma recall (see 5.4), and writing that simply rehearses the upsetting event. In Collier's experiment, writing about an upsetting event kept negative mood going, while textile making lifted it [source: Collier, Wayment & Birkett 2016]; so keep writing after the making and aimed at meaning, not at re-living [synthesis]. It is working when the writing deepens meaning without leaving the client flooded.

4.10 Guided imagery alongside making

  • Purpose / when: to generate an image or symbol to stitch, or to deepen a felt sense of the piece [source: Collier publisher page and interview, which name guided imagery]. Collier's own imagery scripts are not reproduced here [uncertain].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Use only brief, eyes-open-optional imagery, such as a safe place or a colour that soothes.
    2. Ask the client to choose a material that matches the image.
    3. Begin making straight away to keep them grounded.
    4. Avoid imagery with trauma survivors until stabilisation is secure.
  • Example language (illustrative): "If you like, picture a place where you feel steady. Notice one colour there. Now find a thread that's close to it."
  • Watch for: dissociation, or distress when closing the eyes. Always offer eyes open. It is working when the client finds an image that steadies them and can return to it.

4.11 Individual story cloth (narrative textile)

  • Purpose / when: for trauma, grief and other deeply felt experiences. Fabric is tactile, often comforting, and may feel more familiar to clients than art materials [source: GWU workshop pages, Garlock]. It is also the first phase of CTP [source: CTP presentation].
  • Steps (the outline is from the Garlock training; the detail is [synthesis]):
    1. Before the session, invite the client to think about what story "needs to be told" and to bring meaningful scraps if they wish [source: GWU].
    2. Talk through the background and the client's own traditions of sewing together [source: GWU].
    3. Demonstrate a few simple stitches; Garlock uses three classic stitches, which the workshop description does not name [uncertain]. Running stitch, backstitch and blanket stitch are a reasonable starter set [synthesis].
    4. Plan the layout on a backing cloth. Cut and place shapes before sewing, so the story can be arranged and rearranged [source: GWU "layout and design"; detail synthesis].
    5. Stitch over several sessions, alternating work in silence with telling.
    6. Look for the alternative story: resilience, help received, what survived [source: GWU, externalising and alternative stories].
  • Example language (illustrative): "You don't need to tell me everything that happened. Let the cloth hold what it needs to." "Where in this picture are you strongest?"
  • Watch for: rising arousal while choosing or placing images of the trauma. Pause, return to plain rhythmic stitching, and ground (see 5.4). It is working when the client can look at and talk about the cloth while staying regulated, and when strengths or hope begin to appear in it.

4.12 Collective story cloth in a circle (CTP phase 2)

  • Purpose / when: for closed groups of survivors after each has made an individual cloth. The collective cloth processes trauma together and reduces isolation and stigma [source: CTP presentation; Cohen 2022 abstract].
  • Steps (the phase structure is sourced; the procedure is [synthesis], because the published abstract and presentation give phases but not session procedure [uncertain]):
    1. Two trained facilitators, at least one of them a trauma-trained clinician.
    2. Agree group norms on confidentiality, choice and no pressure to disclose.
    3. Each member contributes a section or motif.
    4. The group decides the composition together.
    5. Each session runs: grounding, stitching with conversation, voluntary sharing, closing ritual.
    6. Agree together how the finished cloth will be kept, displayed or archived.
  • Example language (illustrative): "Each of you decides what you add and how much you say about it."
  • Watch for: group contagion of distress and power differences between members. It is working when members witness and support each other and show readiness for phase 3 leadership roles [source: CTP].

4.13 Memory, grief and legacy objects

  • Purpose / when: for anticipatory grief, bereavement, and illness transitions [source: Collier interview, where a sweater she crocheted while a friend was dying came to hold memories of that time; Reynolds 2002, where pieces given away or displayed were felt as a legacy or "a bit of me" left behind].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Choose an object, such as a memory quilt from the deceased's clothing, a shawl or a cushion.
    2. Discuss which garments to cut. Cutting can be a significant grief moment, so plan it.
    3. Make slowly, inviting memories as pieces are joined.
    4. Decide who will keep the finished object.
  • Example language (illustrative): "Before we cut this shirt, would you like to say anything to it, or about him?"
  • Watch for: reluctance to cut. Offer photographs or using only part of a garment. It is working when the object becomes a source of comfort and connection rather than avoidance.

4.14 Colour and material choice as a mood conversation

  • Purpose / when: to track mood and hope over time [source: Reynolds 2000, where mood shaped colour choice and one woman could not bear dark colours when low; Reynolds 2002, where colour shifts were linked to lifted spirits and a "new beginning"].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Notice colour and material choices aloud, without interpreting them.
    2. Ask what draws the client to them today.
    3. Over time, compare earlier and later choices together.
  • Example language (illustrative): "You've moved towards the oranges this month. What do you make of that?"
  • Watch for: the urge to interpret. Meaning belongs to the maker. It is working when the client notices links between their choices and their mood.

4.15 Making for others

  • Purpose / when: for low self-worth, a dependency role, or a wish to contribute [source: Corkhill, charity knitting moves people from needing help to giving it; Reynolds 2000, charity work helped some women feel they had "made their mark"].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Find an appropriate cause or recipient, and check the recipient's rules on safe materials, for example for neonatal units.
    2. Set a realistic quantity.
    3. Arrange for the client to deliver the items, or to hear back from the recipient.
  • Example language (illustrative) [synthesis]: "Who would you like these to go to? Let's keep the number small enough that it stays a pleasure, not a duty."
  • Watch for: giving that turns into obligation, or work that is never allowed to be for the self. It is working when the client's sense of agency and purpose rises.

4.16 Craft groups, community links and peer roles

  • Purpose / when: for isolation, and for moving on from therapy [source: Corkhill, groups as a "great leveller"; Reynolds 2000, clubs and courses as social support; CTP phase 3, participants taking leadership roles]. Collier's book has a chapter on women's textile circles ("Spin the Web: Circles of Women"); its group procedure is not reproduced here [uncertain].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Decide whether the group is therapy (closed, with a therapeutic contract, run by a clinician) or a wellbeing activity (open, run by a craft facilitator).
    2. Prepare the client for joining.
    3. Link them to a community group or guild at discharge.
    4. Invite experienced members to mentor others, within clear boundaries.
  • Example language (illustrative) [synthesis]: "The knitting group at the library is for making and chatting, not for therapy. Anything heavier that comes up, bring here."
  • Watch for: blurred boundaries between a craft group and therapy, such as disclosures made in an open group (see 5.8). It is working when the client attends independently.

4.17 Retrospective review of the body of work

  • Purpose / when: at review points and at ending. Reynolds found that meanings were often recognised only in hindsight, that reviewing work may itself be therapeutic, and that a collection records growth and resourcefulness [source: Reynolds 2002].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Lay out all the pieces, or photographs of them, in order.
    2. Ask the client to tell the story of the sequence.
    3. Note shifts in imagery, colour and skill.
    4. Name the resources the client used.
  • Example language (illustrative): "Looking at these in order, what story do they tell about the last few months?"
  • Watch for: distress at early, darker pieces. Frame them as evidence of how far the client has come. It is working when the client describes themselves as more capable or hopeful, which Reynolds calls "a new positive self".

4.18 Display, witnessing and decisions about the object

  • Purpose / when: to close a piece of work, or to give it a public voice [source: Reynolds 2002 on gifts and display as legacy; Conflict Textiles and the Storycloth Database as examples of curated narrative textiles, per Garlock].
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Discuss the options: keep, give, display, archive, transform or dispose.
    2. For any display, get written consent and offer anonymity. Chilean arpilleras were deliberately unsigned to protect their makers [source: TRC Leiden].
    3. Prepare the client for how viewers may react. In Reynolds 2002, friends and family found some pieces disturbing.
  • Example language (illustrative) [synthesis]: "This piece is yours. You can keep it, give it away, show it without your name, or let it go. There's no rush to decide."
  • Watch for: pressure to exhibit, and difficulty parting with a piece (one Reynolds participant found it hard to sell her work). It is working when the client's decision feels like their own.

4.19 Culturally rooted narrative textiles (attributed)

  • Purpose / when: when a client's own tradition, or a group's chosen form, is a narrative textile. Garlock describes cross-cultural traditions of women sewing in community to organise, advocate, grieve and heal [source: GWU].
  • Chilean arpilleras, as an example of attribution [source: TRC Leiden, Anderson 2015]:
    • Appliqué, patchwork and embroidered pictures, often with small three-dimensional cloth figures, on burlap or flour-sack backing, made from scraps and used clothing.
    • After the 1973 coup, poor women around Santiago made them in paid workshops run by the Catholic Church's Vicaría de la Solidaridad. Many makers belonged to the Agrupación de los Familiares de los Detenidos Desaparecidos (AFDD).
    • Their themes included protests for the disappeared and the family table with an empty chair.
    • Roberta Bacic called them "an art of poverty". She curates Conflict Textiles and runs arpillera workshops.
  • Steps [synthesis]:
    1. Name the tradition and its history when you offer the form.
    2. Invite clients from that culture to say what it means to them, and follow their lead.
    3. Draw on community makers or curators rather than presenting yourself as the authority.
    4. Do not call a generic appliqué picture an "arpillera" without explaining its origin.
  • Example language (illustrative) [synthesis]: "This style comes from Chilean women who stitched for their disappeared relatives. Does it connect with anything in your own family's traditions, or would you rather use a different form?"
  • Watch for: appropriation, and political or grief associations for exiles and their families. Other narrative-textile traditions exist but are not covered here [uncertain].

4.20 Adaptations for children and young people

  • Purpose / when: for use with children and adolescents [synthesis throughout; no published child-specific protocol is known, uncertain].
  • Steps:
    1. Use age-appropriate methods: finger knitting, French knitting (spool knitting) bobbins, card-loom weaving, plastic-canvas sewing with large blunt needles, felt and fabric glue, simple pom-poms.
    2. Keep sharps and needle felting for older adolescents, under close supervision and only where the risk assessment allows.
    3. Get the young person's assent and the consent of whoever holds parental responsibility. Explain the limits of confidentiality in words the child understands.
    4. Involve carers through shared making or a review of the work, with the child's agreement.
    5. Keep sessions short and the outcome concrete.
  • Safeguarding: if a child discloses harm, or the content of their work raises concern, follow your safeguarding procedure and mandatory-reporting duties at once, recording the child's words verbatim. Do not interpret the image, and never present the work itself as evidence of abuse.
  • Example language (illustrative): "You're the boss of what goes on your cloth. If you tell me something that means you might not be safe, I'll need to tell someone whose job is to help keep you safe."
  • Watch for: swallowing or choking risk from small beads and buttons in young children, and string or cord risks.

5. Handling problems

The sources say little about handling difficulties. Guidance is tagged by source; anything untagged within a [synthesis] item is the author's own synthesis.

5.1 "I'm not creative" / won't start

  • People do not need a lifelong interest. Most of Reynolds's participants took up needlecraft as adults, often after stressful events [source: Reynolds 2000].
  • Offer a structured kit or a single repetitive stitch rather than open design.
  • Do the first rows side by side with the client.
  • Treat "process, not product" as the goal [synthesis; Corkhill's "process of knitting" framing].

5.2 Gendered stigma and reluctance

  • Collier's work focuses on women, but she believes the benefits extend to men, especially those who already make textiles [source: Collier interview].
  • Corkhill found reluctant people, often men, more willing once told they only need to do the process, not become a knitter [source: Corkhill].
  • [synthesis] Offer alternatives such as weaving, rope and knot work (on wards, only where ligature risk allows), leather or rug hooking. Talk about the craft's history in fishing, military and sailing contexts.

5.3 Perfectionism and harsh self-judgement

  • One Reynolds participant first judged her work harshly, and only changed her view after praise from others [source: Reynolds 2000].
  • [synthesis] Name the critic. Agree a "deliberately imperfect" practice piece. Keep mistakes visible as part of the story. Return to an easier project for a while.

5.4 Overwhelm and re-traumatisation in story work

  • CTP's design aims to process trauma without activating the threat response [source: CTP presentation].
  • [synthesis] Screen before narrative work for:
    • current safety
    • stability
    • dissociation
    • substance use
    • recent crisis
  • [synthesis] Build phase-B regulation first and agree a stop signal.
  • [synthesis] When signs of overwhelm appear (rapid breathing, freezing, flashback cues, stabbing at the cloth):
    1. Stop narrative content.
    2. Shift to plain rhythmic stitching or handling soft fibre.
    3. Orient the client to the room and the present.
    4. Put the story cloth away, folded or covered, before closing.
  • [synthesis] Always end with grounding and a check that the client is safe to leave. In groups, have a second facilitator free to support one person.

5.5 Dissociation during repetitive work

  • [synthesis] Absorption can slide into dissociation. Check in at intervals. Vary the task with colour changes or counting. Keep eyes open and add sensory anchors, such as naming textures.

5.6 Agitation, mania and compulsive making

  • Some participants could not sit still long enough to stitch in manic phases [source: Reynolds 2000].
  • One participant described working "obsessively" during chemotherapy, and Reynolds did not explore whether this was harmful [source: Reynolds 2002].
  • Corkhill, by contrast, regards heavy knitting as a good obsession [source: Corkhill]. The sources differ [uncertain].
  • [synthesis] Watch for making that crowds out sleep, eating, relationships or other treatment, or that becomes avoidance. Agree time limits and offer short, high-movement tasks during agitation.

5.7 Non-adherence to home practice

  • [synthesis] Shrink the task to five minutes a day and leave the project out where the client will see it.
  • [synthesis] Check practical barriers: cost, materials, pain, privacy at home, and family reactions.
  • [synthesis] Link practice to an existing routine, such as with the evening news.

5.8 Disclosures in non-therapy craft groups and boundary blur

  • Collier notes that psychological issues arise in fibre workshops and that most fibre teachers are not trained to handle them [source: Collier interview].
  • [synthesis] Brief craft facilitators on how to respond to distress and how to signpost. Agree a referral route to a clinician. Keep therapy-level exploration in contracted groups only.

5.9 Ruptures

  • [synthesis] Common triggers:
    • the therapist interpreting the work
    • touching or "fixing" the client's piece without permission
    • damaging or losing a piece in storage
    • a sharps search that feels like an accusation
    • comparisons between group members
  • [synthesis] Name the rupture and take responsibility for your part. Always ask before handling a piece. Store work securely and labelled. Explain that sharps counts apply to everyone.

5.10 Self-harm and ligature risk with materials

  • [synthesis; follow local policy] If a sharp is missing, stop the session, search, and escalate under ward procedure.
  • [synthesis] If you discover self-harm or a ligature attempt, follow the emergency procedure, then complete incident reporting. Hold an MDT review of the client's access to materials based on individual risk, not on blanket removal of craft from everyone. National guidance treats therapeutic engagement as one protective factor [source: HEFMA item].
  • [synthesis] Make risk assessment part of every session for at-risk clients. Ask directly about urges, using current standard practice. Do not discuss methods; focus on safe storage and the plan.

5.11 Disturbing imagery and others' reactions

  • Some works expressed suffering the maker had not consciously recognised, and friends or family found some pieces disturbing [source: Reynolds 2002].
  • [synthesis] Do not interpret. Ask the client what they see in the piece. Agree who gets to see the work, and prepare them for others' reactions.

5.12 "It didn't work"

  • One participant hoped that externalising pain would aid recovery, but said it didn't quite work [source: Reynolds 2002].
  • [synthesis] Revisit the goal. Separate symptom relief from meaning-making. Combine craft with other indicated treatment, and never offer it as a replacement for medical or psychiatric care.

5.13 Physical pain, strain and access

  • [synthesis] Adapt tools (see Section 2). Use lighter yarn and bigger needles, and shorten work periods.
  • [synthesis] Build cheap or donated material routes. Arpilleras themselves were made from scraps and used clothing [source: TRC Leiden].

5.14 Cultural, religious and appropriation tensions

  • [synthesis] Ask about the meanings of crafts, colours and symbols in the client's faith and culture. Use labels such as "prayer shawl" only if the client chooses them.
  • [synthesis] Attribute traditions (see 4.19). Defer to community makers about how their traditions are used.

5.15 Endings and unfinished objects

  • [synthesis] Plan from the start what happens to unfinished pieces: take home, finish later, or bind off as it is.
  • [synthesis] On inpatient units, agree how items are stored and returned at discharge or transfer. Agree in advance what happens to work left behind.
  • [synthesis] Use retrospective review (4.17) as the ending ritual.

Sources

Web pages and articles:

Books and chapters cited:

  • Collier, A. F. (2011). Using Textile Arts and Handcrafts in Therapy with Women. Jessica Kingsley.
  • Cohen, R. (2022). Sew to speak: Common Threads Project psychotherapy circles. In Groupwork with Refugees and Survivors of Human Rights Abuses (pp. 211–223). Routledge.